Monday, 22 May 2017

Walking to Cannero Part II

Once we were past Carmine Superiore, the path mostly remained at the same height above the lake. Sometimes we walked at the back of a villa and surrounding park, sometimes in the front. There were many houses looking all empty; some abandoned, some probably occupied later in summer. I could have taken dozens more photos (you know me!), but the sky was cloudy and we wanted to reach Cannero.

Coming down from the path via a series of steps, this was our first approach of Cannero:

We explored the small town for a little while before finding a comfortable spot in a café on the lake front, where we enjoyed an "affogato" each (chilled coffee poured over vanilla ice cream).


 Then we had the choice between several options: Walk back to Cannobio the way we'd come (possible, but not exactly what we wanted), take a bus or taxi back (no way!) or take one of the ferries that regularly carries passengers from the eastern to the western shores of the lake and back.

You won't be surprised to read that we took the ferry! It wasn't overly expensive; only about 8 euros per person, if I remember correctly. It did not go directly to Cannobio, but across the lake to the opposite town of Luino, then stopped on that side of the lake at another small town before crossing the water once more to Cannobio, where of course we left the boat and went to our hotel (before heading out again for something to eat later on).

View from the boat of the place where we had been sitting earlier:

Approaching Cannobio at an angle we had not yet seen it from:

Another beautiful day; but the clouds visible in some of the pictures were a sign of what was to come on Thursday.

Saturday, 20 May 2017

Walking to Cannero - Part I

Wednesday morning looked like this:

As the forecast was for unsettled weather and the clouds made us believe it, we decided on a shorter hike, rather a walk, which would not lead us too far away from opportunities for shelter. It turned out we did not need any shelter, as the day was quite beautiful, but we did not know that when we set off after breakfast.

Our walk (which was actually rather steep and challenging in some parts, not something you'd do for a leisurely stroll on a Sunday afternoon) took us south of Cannobio, on old mule paths in the woods, following the shoreline high up, via a village called Carmine Superiore to the next town, Cannero.

Along the way, I took too many pictures to pack into one post.

View of Cannobio soon after we started to walk:

A lot of it was through woodland (mainly chestnut trees), but in between there were many spots offering great views of the lake.

A tiny hamlet with an even tinier chapel, and what used to be the main flour mill for Cannobio (according to our little guide book). Imagine the people back then carrying sacks of grain up to the mill and the finished product back down every time, all on mules' backs - or their own.

Then the first glimpse of Carmine Superiore and its church. This medieval village is still not accessible by car. Some of its houses stand empty, but a lot of them have been lovingly restored and are now lived in; some permanently, some only in the summer.
I was pleased to find this blog about the place, and am going to explore it further as soon as I get the time.

The church (from around the year 1330, with most of the frescoes being painted in the 15th century) was locked, but there is a rather good description of it on the sign near the door. Also, a large window has been purpose-built into its back wall (you can't see it in the pictures). Putting a 1-Euro-coin into a slit in the wall turns the lights on inside the church, so that tourists can admire the frescoes.

The views from the terrace are beautiful:

Eventually, we moved on, leaving the village at its other end.

Our next stop was Cannero, which will be the subject of one of my next posts.